By Ramycia CooperAfrican-American women and girls walked into Ossamas Hair Design beauty salon one recent Saturday morning, winded and ready to begin their day of hair care.
“Who’s next?” shouted a dark-haired, middle-aged Egyptian man.
A brown-skinned black woman dressed in light blue jeans, white gym shoes, and a bright yellow T-shirt that peeked out from underneath her dark black smock approached the man standing near a shampoo bowl inside the hair salon in west suburban Oak Park.
The woman sat down then leaned back in the chair then placed her head over the shampoo bowl. Soon the male Egyptian beautician picked up the sink’s black water hose and sprayed the woman’s hair then poured on shampoo and massaged her scalp, white soap bubbles forming.
After a final rinse, another Egyptian man about, 5 feet 9 inches tall, with a round face and short curly hair, directed her to his chair for a blow dry. Soon her hair was curled, fluffed, feathered and sprayed and another appointment at the beauty shop complete. All for the price of $45—cheap, many around here say, compared to many salons.
It is a typical scene that plays out almost daily at black hair salons in neighborhoods across Chicago and beyond. Except this recent salon session was not at a black–owned beauty shop, but an Egyptian-owned one. The success of Ossamas and others is evidence of a growing trend among African-American women, some of whom say the Egyptian-owned and operated salons are less expensive than their African-American counterparts. Some women also contend that the immigrant newcomers do as good a job when it comes to styling their hair as some black stylists.
But African-American beauticians see the delving of Egyptian-run salons into the business of doing black women’s hair as encroaching upon their territory and the decades-old industry by which many African Americans have made their living. Some also contend that the Egyptian beauticians don’t know how to properly care for black women’s hair. But some Egyptian stylists like Casey Almazry say that’s not the case and that their work speaks for itself.
“The African-American women love ‘the look’ we provide, we keep the hair healthy, we help the hair grow back if it’s damaged. Overall, we take care of the hair,” Almazry said.
Whatever the case, this much is clear—as clear as the buzz and hum of the blow dryer at Ossamas and the steady stream of clients: Change is in the air.
The History
According to Casey Almazry, 8-year stylist at Ossama’s, the first Egyptian-owned hair salon was opened in 1999 by Ihai on Dearborn Street and Congress Boulevard in downtown Chicago.
Many African-American women found out about these salons because of friends and chose to try them out.
“About six years ago when I was in high school at Jones Commercial downtown, I went with one of my friends and she got her hair done, I liked it and it didn’t take much time,” said Tiara Dixion, 24, a regular at Ossamas. “Ever since then I’ve been patronizing them every once and a while.”
The Critics
Dixion says that she doesn’t think that the Egyptians know how to keep the texture of African-American hair healthy or know how to truly take care of it. She doesn’t have a regular African-American beautician but said that if she did that she would go to them instead because she would think they knew how to take care of her hair a lot better.
Many of the black women who utilize these shops say it’s mainly because of convenience. “I go to the Egyptian shops because I know I don’t have to make an appointment, I don’t have to wait usually, I will be out the door within an hour or so,” said Dixion.
On the other hand, some Black women agree with Almazry it’s because of “the look” they continue to come back.
“At some African-American beauty shops, it costs about fifty-five or sixty dollars to get a perm along with a style, but I can go to the Egyptian salons and get that perm look without the perm price,” said Jessica Robinson, 20, a client at Ossamas.
“I especially love the blow-drying technique they use, it leaves my hair really bouncy, flowey, and bone straight” said Ladrina Terry, 28, client.
According to Almazry, African-American beauticians don’t view him and other Egyptian stylists or salon owners as being any different as competitors than competing black-owned and operated shops. He adds that in his experience black women try his shop and other Egyptian-run shops because they like Egyptian Hair Designs.
Some African-American beauticians disagree. Deverra “Dede” Jackson is the owner of De’s Hair Cottage on Chicago’s South Side. Jackson, who has been a cosmetologist for more than 20 years, contends that the process the Egyptians use on the African-American women hair is damaging.
A brown-skinned black woman dressed in light blue jeans, white gym shoes, and a bright yellow T-shirt that peeked out from underneath her dark black smock approached the man standing near a shampoo bowl inside the hair salon in west suburban Oak Park.
The woman sat down then leaned back in the chair then placed her head over the shampoo bowl. Soon the male Egyptian beautician picked up the sink’s black water hose and sprayed the woman’s hair then poured on shampoo and massaged her scalp, white soap bubbles forming.
After a final rinse, another Egyptian man about, 5 feet 9 inches tall, with a round face and short curly hair, directed her to his chair for a blow dry. Soon her hair was curled, fluffed, feathered and sprayed and another appointment at the beauty shop complete. All for the price of $45—cheap, many around here say, compared to many salons.It is a typical scene that plays out almost daily at black hair salons in neighborhoods across Chicago and beyond. Except this recent salon session was not at a black–owned beauty shop, but an Egyptian-owned one. The success of Ossamas and others is evidence of a growing trend among African-American women, some of whom say the Egyptian-owned and operated salons are less expensive than their African-American counterparts. Some women also contend that the immigrant newcomers do as good a job when it comes to styling their hair as some black stylists.
But African-American beauticians see the delving of Egyptian-run salons into the business of doing black women’s hair as encroaching upon their territory and the decades-old industry by which many African Americans have made their living. Some also contend that the Egyptian beauticians don’t know how to properly care for black women’s hair. But some Egyptian stylists like Casey Almazry say that’s not the case and that their work speaks for itself.
“The African-American women love ‘the look’ we provide, we keep the hair healthy, we help the hair grow back if it’s damaged. Overall, we take care of the hair,” Almazry said.
Whatever the case, this much is clear—as clear as the buzz and hum of the blow dryer at Ossamas and the steady stream of clients: Change is in the air.
The History
According to Casey Almazry, 8-year stylist at Ossama’s, the first Egyptian-owned hair salon was opened in 1999 by Ihai on Dearborn Street and Congress Boulevard in downtown Chicago.
Many African-American women found out about these salons because of friends and chose to try them out.
“About six years ago when I was in high school at Jones Commercial downtown, I went with one of my friends and she got her hair done, I liked it and it didn’t take much time,” said Tiara Dixion, 24, a regular at Ossamas. “Ever since then I’ve been patronizing them every once and a while.”
The Critics
Dixion says that she doesn’t think that the Egyptians know how to keep the texture of African-American hair healthy or know how to truly take care of it. She doesn’t have a regular African-American beautician but said that if she did that she would go to them instead because she would think they knew how to take care of her hair a lot better.Many of the black women who utilize these shops say it’s mainly because of convenience. “I go to the Egyptian shops because I know I don’t have to make an appointment, I don’t have to wait usually, I will be out the door within an hour or so,” said Dixion.
On the other hand, some Black women agree with Almazry it’s because of “the look” they continue to come back.
“At some African-American beauty shops, it costs about fifty-five or sixty dollars to get a perm along with a style, but I can go to the Egyptian salons and get that perm look without the perm price,” said Jessica Robinson, 20, a client at Ossamas.
“I especially love the blow-drying technique they use, it leaves my hair really bouncy, flowey, and bone straight” said Ladrina Terry, 28, client.
According to Almazry, African-American beauticians don’t view him and other Egyptian stylists or salon owners as being any different as competitors than competing black-owned and operated shops. He adds that in his experience black women try his shop and other Egyptian-run shops because they like Egyptian Hair Designs.
Some African-American beauticians disagree. Deverra “Dede” Jackson is the owner of De’s Hair Cottage on Chicago’s South Side. Jackson, who has been a cosmetologist for more than 20 years, contends that the process the Egyptians use on the African-American women hair is damaging.
“A lot of Black women have chemicals in their hair such as perms, the blow drying process is damaging because it’s a lot of heat on the hair which it turn thins the hair out,” said Jackson.
Jackson also said that one of the ways the Egyptians marketed their salon was the blow-drying technique they use, which, in her estimation, it gives African-American women that full-body European look so many of them seek.
Jackson also said that one of the ways the Egyptians marketed their salon was the blow-drying technique they use, which, in her estimation, it gives African-American women that full-body European look so many of them seek.
“The problem I have with the black women is that they go to them for so many years, and their hair is so damaged they always have to come back to the sisters that know their hair,” Jackson said. “They always have to go back to where they’ve come from.”
Jackson also contends that the Egyptian stylists do not know what it takes to keep Black women hair healthy.
“I’m into healthy hair. I always tell my clients that hair is like grass, you have to water it, fertilize it, keep the ends trimmed,” Jackson said. “I give my clients deep conditionings. I use protein, and I use products and techniques that will keep the hair strong and healthy.”
“I love the way Dede does my hair, she makes it shine, and she knows my hair because she is African-American,” said Lilly Johnson, 29, referring to Jackson. “I feel really comfortable with her.”
Jackson also explains that the Egyptians’ techniques are more for African-American women who do not have a chemical perm in their hair, but wear their hair natural. But the bulk of their clientele are Black women with relaxed hair.
“Another problem I have with the Egyptians is that they do not educate their clients on the damage and after effects of the process they use on African-American women hair,” Jackson said. “Their not educating the Black sisters at all, their just making the money.”
“If we see that the hair is damaged, we encourage our clients to get a hot oil treatments and deep conditionings, it’s up to them to utilize the suggestions” said Mona, Egyptian stylist at Sara’s Hair Salon in west suburban Oak Park.
“I have tried the Egyptian salons and their technique thinned my hair out really bad, so now I stick to the Black beauty shops, I trust them more so than the Egyptians with my hair,” said Shoniece Brown, 23, former Egyptian client.
“After I blow dry the hair, I use pomade on the hair to give it shine and bounce, as far as thinning the hair, I’m not sure of what she means,” said Mona.
Deborah J. Williams, deputy director of operations at Dudley Beauty College in Chicago, says that the blow dryers that are used in the Egyptian Salons are harmful to the hair over a period of time.
Jackson doesn’t see the Egyptian-owned salons as new competition, she says. As a hair dresser, you have to look at longevity.
“I don’t feel that they are competition if I have to correct their work,” said Jackson.
“One of their strongest marketing tools is the men who do hair in the shops,” Jackson said. “The men are talking to the women, making them feel good, convincing them to let them ‘take care’ of their hair, when really their just making the money.”
Although many African-American women are apparently alternating, or in some cases abandoning the black-owned salons, many still remain faithful, even if some aren’t.
“Going to the Egyptians Salons every once and while is not bad. They do very good hair, I mean the hair is beautiful. But after going to them for several years the hair has lots of breakage and it’s damaged severely,” said Williams.
Epilogue
Epilogue
Jackson doesn’t see the Egyptian-owned salons as new competition, she says. As a hair dresser, you have to look at longevity.“I don’t feel that they are competition if I have to correct their work,” said Jackson.
“One of their strongest marketing tools is the men who do hair in the shops,” Jackson said. “The men are talking to the women, making them feel good, convincing them to let them ‘take care’ of their hair, when really their just making the money.”
Although many African-American women are apparently alternating, or in some cases abandoning the black-owned salons, many still remain faithful, even if some aren’t.
“Coming from a family of hair dressers and barbers, I have and always will continue to support African-American salons,” said Toni James, 32, a client at De’s Hair Cottage. “If something goes wrong with my hair, I know exactly who to go back to.”
1 comment:
I have been to Yehia's, Max, Ossama's and Mena's. I have been a regular client of Mena's now for five years. I go every week and so does my sister.
My hair is to the middle of back about 2 inches past my bra strap. I often get "Is it a Weave? and Are you mixed?" Women, people at my job, and on the street have commented on my hair.
My hair is healthy, permed and beautiful. i owe it to the Egyptians and their technique.
Post a Comment